Castello di Borghese: The North Fork's First Winery

I thought it was only appropriate to launch my series of winery recaps with the one that started it all on the North Fork - Castello di Borghese. Originally called Hargrave Vineyard, its founders Alex and Louisa Hargrave are regarded as the pioneers of Long Island wine, having built the region's first commercial winery essentially from the ground up. Their entrepreneurial spirit and hard work helped pave the way for the North Fork wine industry.

In 1999, the Hargraves sold their business to Marco and Ann Marie Borghese, and shortly after, the establishment's name was changed to Castello di Borghese. Marco Borghese, an Italian prince from the famous Borghese family, had never even heard of the North Fork prior to making an impromptu visit to the area while vacationing in the Hamptons. But, he became so charmed by the region, and the Hargrave property, that he decided to purchase it when it was up for sale.

                                                
Tasting Room
Borghese's tasting room is a fairly laid-back atmosphere, with a reasonable amount of space at the bar. Although there isn't interior space for sitting down at a table, there is some outdoor seating. There is an additional room behind the bar - used for special functions like weddings, parties, or small shows, adorned with paintings and photography from local artists - which patrons are welcome to enter and view.

Overall Rating: 4 out of 5 Glasses (Very Good)
To be honest, before learning about the winery's origins, I was hesitant to give it a try, as the name "Castello di Borghese", and its corresponding emblem, always summoned thoughts of the cheesy Medieval Times dinner theater experience. Clearly, that was short-sighted. You certainly don't need the amusement of knights, jousting tournaments, or royal feasts to enjoy these wines.

All told, if you enjoy lively whites, or reds with a softer, lighter style that are drinkable now, this is your place. After sampling a number of wines, Borghese seems to do a great job at staying true to each varietal's character. Interestingly, critical winemaking decisions are not controlled by one person, but actually a committee. Through this, Borghese keeps their wines appropriately restrained. Unlike some others we've sampled in the North Fork, at no point during the Borghese tasting did I feel like they were trying too hard with any particular wine.

Bottom line, we actually had such a pleasant experience here, we stuck around for a second tasting! Favorites: Chardonette, 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 Estate Merlot.

The signature antique truck in front of the Borghese property along Route 48.

Tasting Notes:
Chardonette ($10.99)
Color: Light straw, nearly colorless
Nose: Very mild, apart from some light tropical fruit
This wine starts with a nice splash of acid, and juicy pineapple flavors. It finished with zesty lemon and a hint of green pepper. All told, don't let the name and lack of color fool you, this one actually had some body to it, with more character than some other crisp Long Island whites.

2007 Estate Chardonnay ($16.99)
Color: Like the chardonette, nearly colorless
Nose: Pear and green apple, with a hint of green pepper
Very light, with a reasonable amount of acid to balance the fruit. The stainless steel fermentation keeps this wine crisp, with nice peach flavors. There is also a subtle buttery character, giving this wine an unmistakable chardonnay personality, unlike some other steel-fermented chardonnays out here in the North Fork that can be mistaken for sauvignon blancs.

2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($21.99)
Color: Like the chardonette and estate chardonnay, a very pale straw, nearly colorless
Nose: Floral, orange blossoms, citrus, pear and a little mint
This wine comes from the oldest commercially planted vines on the North Fork (dating back to 1973), and judging from this wine, these veteran vines produce some tasty grapes. This wine yields steady fruit on the tongue, with peachy flavors, complemented by refreshing acid. This wine is perfectly balanced, with good body, structure and length. A real home-run.

2008 Estate Riesling ($21.99)
Color: Pale gold, a little more color than the other whites we tasted
Nose: Floral, slightly musky
This wine has some decent fruit with pleasant red apple flavors that lingered for some time. But there wasn't as much acid to achieve the balance I found with the sauvignon blanc. For the same price, the sauvignon blanc is a better choice.

Petit Chateau ($12.99)
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc
Color: Crimson
Nose: Some nice red fruit, eucalyptus, and a little "barnyard" earthy character
This wine is very light, with a hint of spicy pepper at first. This wine was more light-bodied than expected, but was a little too heavy on the tannins. Generally easy drinking, but not spectacular relative to some of Borghese's other varietals.

2006 Estate Pinot Noir ($29.99)
Color: Very light red, with a rusty tint
Nose: Cherry, melon, musk
Generally light and easy, with decent length. Given the challenges that come with producing a high-quality pinot on the North Fork, this is pleasant. Borghese's unique micro climate (good sun exposure and proximity to water on both sides of the vineyard - the Sound to the north, and the Bay to the south) enables them to take chances with a fickle grape like this.

2005 Estate Merlot ($19.99)
Color: Deep magenta, good transparency
Nose: Dark fruit, spice, and a little vanilla & cream
The nose leads right into the palate, where you get some dark fruits, spices and pepper early on. This wine has some tannins, but they're much softer than the ones in the Petit Chateau. The medley of acid and fruit lingers and holds together quite nicely. This wine is very balanced and coats the tongue well. It's generally a light-style merlot, but carries enough concentration to support a sturdy finish.

2003 Reserve Merlot ($29.00)
Color: Brownish magenta
Nose: Barnyard earthiness, with some red fruit
This is an easy-drinking merlot, with some lively fruit and soft tannins. This wine is not trying to be anything more than a traditional merlot.

2006 Estate Cabernet Franc ($24.99)
Color: Medium crimson
Nose: Not as much barnyard earthiness as you'd expect in a cab franc. In fact, not a strong nose in general. Some dark fruit and minty tones.
This wine delivers the classic peppery flavors that cab franc typically yields, plus some soft tannins. While generally pleasant, there wasn't as much length in this wine as other Borghese wines we tasted.

Cabernet Franc Reserve ($42.00)
Color: Like the Estate cab franc, a medium crimson
Nose: Dark berries and some nutty aromas, a more powerful nose than the Estate cab franc.
This wine was better than its Estate counterpart, with smoother fruit. It softly coats the tongue with balanced components and decent length.