Jamesport Vineyards is actually one of the first wineries you pass when heading east from the point on the island where it splits to become Hamptons (South Fork) and the North Fork. For those coming in for a visit from the City, this can be a great place to commence your with North Fork wine experience.
Founded in 1981 as Early Rising Farm, Jamesport is run by a father-son pair and touts exclusive use of their own grapes in production of their wines. Currently, they grow about 40 acres of grapes for 7,000 cases of annual wine production.
If you’re interested in doing more research, Jamesport’s website actually has some useful content (minus a few typos!). Beyond the requisite description of Jamesport’s wines and info on the Goerler family members who founded and manage the business, there is a list of Long Island and New York City retailers and restaurants that sell/feature Jamesport wines. This is something I wish every North Fork producer included on their website.
Tasting Room
The tasting room, in a 150-year old barn (recently refurbished with the help of another local vintner who also does some construction work in the area), was quite pleasant. There is also ample outdoor space for events and entertainment, and seating for folks just visiting on a nice day. Additionally, the staff behind the bar seemed very knowledgeable about the wines they were pouring.
Tasting Options
Upon arriving, one of the first things I noticed was the number of tasting options (five) you could choose from, offering more flexibility than many other tasting rooms in the region. No matter your preferences, you are likely to find a selection that works for you. These five sets of tastings include the: East End Series, Estate, Premium, Whites and Reds. I chose the Estate option, and my tasting notes below reflect that, plus the Estate Block E Merlot that we ordered for a supplemental charge.
Overall Rating: 4 out of 5 Glasses (Very Good)
If you’re looking for well-made wines, a pleasant tasting atmosphere, and a knowledgeable tasting room staff, Jamesport Vineyards is certainly one you should add to your list. That said, for some of their wines, it’ll cost you. Based on my experience, there are other producers in the region with quality that rivals that of Jamesport’s, but represent a better value by charging a lower price for tastings and some bottled varietals for purchase. Favorites: 2008 Riesling, 2005 Cabernet Franc.
Tasting Notes:
2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($23.95)
Color: Pale straw, almost no color
Nose: Citrus, peach, melon, and some lemon zest
There is a good burst of fruit at first, with peach and mango flavors. This wine was certainly made in the New Zealand style – fruit forward with crispy acidity to complement it. Nice length for a white and well-balanced overall.
2008 Riesling ($29.95)
Color: Golden straw with a greenish tint, a little more color than the Sauvignon Blanc
Nose: Honeysuckle, lychee, sweet floral, and some lemon/lime citrus after it opened up
This Riesling is a perfect balance between pleasant fruit and crispy acid. It is very structured, where you can feel the weight of the fruit right down the middle of your tongue and the acid on the sides and back of your mouth. This wine is not completely dry (some residual sugar), but pair it with some spicy food, and it’ll go down real easy.
2007 Pinot Noir ($39.95)
Color: Brownish red
Nose: Fruity, and a little smoky, with some cinnamon and brown sugar. Not as earthy a nose as many other Pinots.
This wine is spicy, with some noticeable tannins. The fruit is not particularly powerful, but there is some acid to complement it. Unfortunately, there was not much length, as all components faded rather quickly. All told, given the challenges that come with cultivating this grape in this region, it’s solid. But, I prefer Borghese’s Pinot at about $30 (see August 9 entry).
East End Merlot ($15.95)
Color: Dark magenta, not completely transparent. Darker than most North Fork Merlots.
Nose: Red fruit, with a smoky quality
Spicy at first, with decent fruit. At first thought, I was afraid it was going to be an onslaught of tannins, but it wasn’t. This wine is lively and the spicy qualities are pleasant, with nutty flavors on the finish. Unlike some of the other wines we tasted, this one is a good value.
2004 Merlot Estate Block E ($24.95)
Color: Dark magenta, more transparent than its East End counterpart
Nose: A little woodsy, nutty
Like the East End, a little spicy at first with subtle tannins, but with darker fruits. Good length and body, with a balanced finish.
2005 Cabernet Franc ($39.95)
Color: Dark magenta, purple hues
Nose: Dark fruits, green pepper, and a little meaty
While it does not possess the classic peppery/earthy characteristics of a Cab Franc, this wine goes down smooth, balanced with solid fruit and minimal tannins. Given my predilection for fruitier flavor profiles, this hit the spot. It’s not surprising that Jamesport’s Cab Franc has achieved “Best Red Wine” status in the esteemed New York Wine Classic.
I thought it was only appropriate to launch my series of winery recaps with the one that started it all on the North Fork - Castello di Borghese. Originally called Hargrave Vineyard, its founders Alex and Louisa Hargrave are regarded as the pioneers of Long Island wine, having built the region's first commercial winery essentially from the ground up. Their entrepreneurial spirit and hard work helped pave the way for the North Fork wine industry.
In 1999, the Hargraves sold their business to Marco and Ann Marie Borghese, and shortly after, the establishment's name was changed to Castello di Borghese. Marco Borghese, an Italian prince from the famous Borghese family, had never even heard of the North Fork prior to making an impromptu visit to the area while vacationing in the Hamptons. But, he became so charmed by the region, and the Hargrave property, that he decided to purchase it when it was up for sale.
Tasting Room
Borghese's tasting room is a fairly laid-back atmosphere, with a reasonable amount of space at the bar. Although there isn't interior space for sitting down at a table, there is some outdoor seating. There is an additional room behind the bar - used for special functions like weddings, parties, or small shows, adorned with paintings and photography from local artists - which patrons are welcome to enter and view.
Overall Rating: 4 out of 5 Glasses (Very Good)
To be honest, before learning about the winery's origins, I was hesitant to give it a try, as the name "Castello di Borghese", and its corresponding emblem, always summoned thoughts of the cheesy Medieval Times dinner theater experience. Clearly, that was short-sighted. You certainly don't need the amusement of knights, jousting tournaments, or royal feasts to enjoy these wines.
All told, if you enjoy lively whites, or reds with a softer, lighter style that are drinkable now, this is your place. After sampling a number of wines, Borghese seems to do a great job at staying true to each varietal's character. Interestingly, critical winemaking decisions are not controlled by one person, but actually a committee. Through this, Borghese keeps their wines appropriately restrained. Unlike some others we've sampled in the North Fork, at no point during the Borghese tasting did I feel like they were trying too hard with any particular wine.
Bottom line, we actually had such a pleasant experience here, we stuck around for a second tasting! Favorites: Chardonette, 2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 Estate Merlot.
The signature antique truck in front of the Borghese property along Route 48.
Tasting Notes:
Chardonette ($10.99)
Color: Light straw, nearly colorless
Nose: Very mild, apart from some light tropical fruit
This wine starts with a nice splash of acid, and juicy pineapple flavors. It finished with zesty lemon and a hint of green pepper. All told, don't let the name and lack of color fool you, this one actually had some body to it, with more character than some other crisp Long Island whites.
2007 Estate Chardonnay ($16.99)
Color: Like the chardonette, nearly colorless
Nose: Pear and green apple, with a hint of green pepper
Very light, with a reasonable amount of acid to balance the fruit. The stainless steel fermentation keeps this wine crisp, with nice peach flavors. There is also a subtle buttery character, giving this wine an unmistakable chardonnay personality, unlike some other steel-fermented chardonnays out here in the North Fork that can be mistaken for sauvignon blancs.
2009 Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($21.99)
Color: Like the chardonette and estate chardonnay, a very pale straw, nearly colorless
Nose: Floral, orange blossoms, citrus, pear and a little mint
This wine comes from the oldest commercially planted vines on the North Fork (dating back to 1973), and judging from this wine, these veteran vines produce some tasty grapes. This wine yields steady fruit on the tongue, with peachy flavors, complemented by refreshing acid. This wine is perfectly balanced, with good body, structure and length. A real home-run.
2008 Estate Riesling ($21.99)
Color: Pale gold, a little more color than the other whites we tasted
Nose: Floral, slightly musky
This wine has some decent fruit with pleasant red apple flavors that lingered for some time. But there wasn't as much acid to achieve the balance I found with the sauvignon blanc. For the same price, the sauvignon blanc is a better choice.
Petit Chateau ($12.99)
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc
Color: Crimson
Nose: Some nice red fruit, eucalyptus, and a little "barnyard" earthy character
This wine is very light, with a hint of spicy pepper at first. This wine was more light-bodied than expected, but was a little too heavy on the tannins. Generally easy drinking, but not spectacular relative to some of Borghese's other varietals.
2006 Estate Pinot Noir ($29.99)
Color: Very light red, with a rusty tint
Nose: Cherry, melon, musk
Generally light and easy, with decent length. Given the challenges that come with producing a high-quality pinot on the North Fork, this is pleasant. Borghese's unique micro climate (good sun exposure and proximity to water on both sides of the vineyard - the Sound to the north, and the Bay to the south) enables them to take chances with a fickle grape like this.
2005 Estate Merlot ($19.99)
Color: Deep magenta, good transparency
Nose: Dark fruit, spice, and a little vanilla & cream
The nose leads right into the palate, where you get some dark fruits, spices and pepper early on. This wine has some tannins, but they're much softer than the ones in the Petit Chateau. The medley of acid and fruit lingers and holds together quite nicely. This wine is very balanced and coats the tongue well. It's generally a light-style merlot, but carries enough concentration to support a sturdy finish.
2003 Reserve Merlot ($29.00)
Color: Brownish magenta
Nose: Barnyard earthiness, with some red fruit
This is an easy-drinking merlot, with some lively fruit and soft tannins. This wine is not trying to be anything more than a traditional merlot.
2006 Estate Cabernet Franc ($24.99)
Color: Medium crimson
Nose: Not as much barnyard earthiness as you'd expect in a cab franc. In fact, not a strong nose in general. Some dark fruit and minty tones.
This wine delivers the classic peppery flavors that cab franc typically yields, plus some soft tannins. While generally pleasant, there wasn't as much length in this wine as other Borghese wines we tasted.
Cabernet Franc Reserve ($42.00)
Color: Like the Estate cab franc, a medium crimson
Nose: Dark berries and some nutty aromas, a more powerful nose than the Estate cab franc.
This wine was better than its Estate counterpart, with smoother fruit. It softly coats the tongue with balanced components and decent length.
Some Other Factors to Consider
Aging - As a wine ages, it will lose some of its fruity characteristics and color. In addition, its tannins will subside, but its acidity will remain intact. Tannins, acid and alcohol are all preservatives and play an important role in the aging of wine. When evaluating ageability of a wine, it is either ready to drink, in need of more time, or past its prime.
A wine is usually considered "ready to drink" when all its major tasting components are in balance, according to your individual preferences. It often needs more time when its tannins overpower its fruity characteristics. And it can be past its prime if it has lost a meaningful amount of color and fruit, leaving the taste of alcohol as its most dominant characteristic.
Cost - This is another attribute that's important to consider. The good news - there are lots of really great wines out there, from all regions of the world, that retail for less than $30 a bottle. Once you know what characteristics you prefer, you can begin to build a go-to list of affordable wines. More good news...many North Fork wines are at that price point as well!
Food & Wine Pairing - When considering which wines to consume with food, the cardinal rule is that the wine should never clash with or overpower your food. Zraly's general rule: "The sturdier or fuller in flavor the food, the more full-bodied the wine should be. For foods that are milder the best wines to use would be medium or light bodied". For example, think about a fillet of white fish and a NY strip steak. Would the same wine bring out the best in these foods? Probably not.
My Two Cents
Since a lot that I've just shared with you is just some basic facts, I wanted to put my own personal spin on it all...
The range in climate, soil, grape varieties, aging style and production techniques give way to an endless assortment of wines, each creating a different sensory experience for you the consumer. Moreover, since wine is a living substance that continues to develop in its bottle, your experience with it on one day will be different from your experience with that very same wine if it were to be opened at any other time.
What I find so neat is that in today's world of mass production and standardization, where else can you find so many options at such an accessible price? With that in mind, it's helpful for you to go through your own self-discovery process to identify which wines you enjoy most. As my clever friend Ellyn said recently "Life's too short to be drinking wines you don't like". I couldn't agree more.
As you start to determine what characteristics you seek in a wine, it's fun to share your thoughts with other wine drinkers. To that end, I give you a glimpse into my own evolving list of preferences that have come from my tasting experiences.
Whites: I have a high tolerance for acid, and enjoy the vibrant "activity" it creates in my mouth. I prefer very little or no residual sugar, and I typically seek crisp, refreshing fruits such as citrus, green apple and pineapple.
Reds: I also seek reds with a little acid to add some complexity, and enjoy red fruits such as strawberry and cherry. My tolerance for tannins is somewhat low, so I typically stay away from young, big red wines. I enjoy a lot of length, and have a particular weakness for wines with a creamy tasting finish.
How does this translate into varietal/regional preferences? I tend to go for dry Rieslings, New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, un-oaked Chardonnays, Zinfandels, North Fork and Washington Merlots, and rather uncharacteristically, French Rhone Valley Syrahs (where I tend to find those creamy finishes). And, when I can get lucky, a powerful red that's been aged properly, making it much lighter on tannins.
Meanwhile, my boyfriend, and tasting partner in crime, typically chooses the same type of whites that I do. But with reds, he has a higher tolerance for tannins and tends to favor wines with dark "stewed fruits" (think raisins and plums), as well as wines with a peppery or earthy profile. Accordingly, he often leans towards big California Cabernets, earthy Pinot Noirs, and Cabernet Francs from regions like the North Fork.
Next Steps for You
As you drink a wine, think about all the elements I discussed. And if you've never done so, don't be afraid to jot down some tasting notes. To get a better sense of what tasting notes look like, use a resource like the website Cellar Tracker, where oenophiles share their thoughts on a broad spectrum of wines.
Now that you're equipped with all of this wine knowledge, I leave you with this Mark Twain quote from Kevin Zraly's book. "There are no standards of taste in wine...each man's own taste is the standard, and a majority vote cannot decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his own standard".
The fun thing about wine is that there's no right answer, because it's so subjective. Everyone experiences nuances in the color, bouquet and palate differently. Only you can work to identify what you like, and once you do so, you'll have lots of fun selecting the varietals and regions that suit your taste. Cheers to that!
